Custom size mk3 heatbed


#201

I’m using just plain glass (3mm thick) onto the alu-heatbed, you should clamp it down on all four corners so the glass touches the alu-plate everywhere.
I’m sure thermal compound will increase the heat-up times drastically but thermal compound tends to be kinda “greasy” which u should avoid onto your printbed at all costs!
In my case I have 3 glass plates I use so I swap them on a daily basis, if there would be thermal compound on the bed it would make a huge mess my girlfriend would love that!

Kind regards
JeAfKe


#202

As Marlak’s beds are perfectly flat you can put the glass plate on top without compound. The thermal conduction will be a bit less efficient but it will do. As I said you can print directly on the alu plate but the glass will protect it from scratches and it will be easier to clean. It’s all up to you : both solutions are working.


#203

OK, thanks again! I will just start without the thermal compound first.

Zoek


#204

The ABS print does not (at all) stick to the glass. Temp looks OK, bedheater temp at 110 sets the temp on the glass at 100C. As I just removed (and ruined) the Buildtak, I will order the Dimafix and try again later.


#205

Try to dissolve a little abs in acetone and brush that on the glass or use painterstape.

Kind regards
JeAfKe


#206

Blue painter tape works good. Dimafix works good also. Started with dimafix a little more then two weeks ago. Creedo in Sweden have it for the once living around here.

// Marlark


#207

Which glass plate do you advice to put on the top of the heated bed? The original from Velleman?

I am now printing on an IKEA mirror and a MK2a however I lose some usefull printing space…
My heated bed is also not 100% flat like yours :o

I would supply the bed with 12V with a Solid State Relay (40A). A little bit overkill but the Solid State Relay will generate less heat :slight_smile:

Dylan


#208

Well i got myself 2 cheramic/borosilicat glass plates. But that is because of the solution of the bottom frame I’m using. Also custom sized for a larger Z axis. It is possible to use the original glass plate but it all comes down to the way you decide to make your “sandwich” so to say. It is possible to use hardened glass but due to the way the two glass types is cooled down the flatness is effected. hardened glass is pretty much impossible to get flat. 3-4 mm is recommended thickness. Both you just get from the local glassmaster. Remember to face off the sides and corners if you do this.


#209

Maybe better to print then on the bed itself.
If it’s totally flat then it’s not a problem :slight_smile:

I read that the thermistor isn’t included… The one from Reprapme will do I guess.
Your bed in combination with a E3D V6 would be great :slight_smile:

I will send you an e-mail now and I will transfer the money to you :smiley:

Dylan


#210

Oh forgot on thingiverse you find a Nutt called Cinya. The design for my “sandwich” is there among other things I have done for my printer. ATM I’m working on a CNC to make more improvements to the printer and other projects Im toying with.


#211

[quote=“minitreintje”]Maybe better to print then on the bed itself.
If it’s totally flat then it’s not a problem :slight_smile:

I read that the thermistor isn’t included… The one from Reprapme will do I guess.
Your bed in combination with a E3D V6 would be great :slight_smile:
[/quote]

That is also possible. Dimafix right on it works. But you have to count in to be able to remove the part from the bed also. Hence the glass.

Y you use preferably a smd format thermistor. A little fiddle to solder but is damn good solution.

// Marlark


#212

[quote=“Marlark”]Dimafix right on it works.[/quote]That’s what I do and it works like a charm.

[quote=“Marlark”]But you have to count in to be able to remove the part from the bed also.[/quote]With Dimafix the part pops up easily when the bed cools down and sticks like hell when hot.


#213

Using Dimafix and lowering the fan speed a little bit, works for me when printing ABS :slight_smile:

Configuration I used, using info in this forum topic: the original Vertex glass directly on Marlarks heatbed, without the use of a thermal compound. The PCU is a 15V 500W (Meanwell RSP 500-15) and I am using 1 extruder. Heatbed and extruder draws a total of max 23 A.


#214

I have had 2 parts i printed that needed cooling spray. But i do have to say i realy like that thing.


#215

Have you received my e-mail and payment Marlak?

Dylan


#216

yupp i did and the bed have been sent so should arrive in the week. Usually goes fairly fast. :slight_smile:

// Marlark


#217

Thank you!
I switched to a new e-mail provider (Protonmail) that’s why I asked :slight_smile:

Dylan


#218

Hi Marlak,

It arrived today :slight_smile:
Wow what a difference with my old heated bed, so flat :o
Now I’m waiting for the thermistor before I can mount it :slight_smile:

Dylan


#219

[quote=“minitreintje”]It arrived today :slight_smile:
Wow what a difference with my old heated bed, so flat :o
Now I’m waiting for the thermistor before I can mount it :slight_smile:
[/quote]

Nice :slight_smile: I have about 60 left atm. Goes about 3 a week so far.

// Marlark


#220

Evening everyone

Last week was a total bust for me spending the entire week in bed sick as hell. Meaning i wasnt able to send out the 3 heatbeds that was sold during the week as i would have liked. But finally i got them on its way plus one that was sold today :slight_smile: Anyway im back on my toes and if someone want a bed there is in stock.

Best Regards
Marlark