try it and let us know how it went!
Most people here - please correct me if I’m wrong - have printed ABS with upgraded heating capability, in order to reach higher temperatures on the heatbed and improve ABS ‘stickability’. Kapton tape or ABS slurry on glass, as P4man already wrote, are commonly used to further promote adhesion, but sufficiently high temperature is so far the key point for reliable ABS printing. On the other hand, there have been no reports of ABS working well on clean glass, so this seems to be a bad choice (in contrast to PLA, which works quite well on glass).
The main problem with ABS is that it shrinks when it cools down. At a certain critical height (1 mm for some objects, 5 mm or more for others), the tensile force that the new layers put on the print when cooling down becomes greater than the adhesion to the heatbed. Mostly this happens at corners and at the (free) end of long, narrow sections, since there the adhesion (which depends on the area) is small. The brim-setting will affect exactly that point: enlarge the area around all the edges to increase adhesion. For some objects, adding a larger brim will help, while others will detach no matter what. By the way, the ABS slurry also works as a kind of brim, providing a very large bottom surface for the print. Additionally, keep the fan at a very low setting or even off when printing ABS. Apart from better layer adhesion, the heatbed will keep a higher temperature without the fan. Also don’t put the printer next to a window or any other source of (cold) airflow or into a cold room for this. Note that the living room may also be a bad choice: hot ABS has a distincive “burnt plastic” smell, much more than PLA.