The Velleman K8200 rules!


#81

For Everyone who doesn’t believe fitchie his printer can do this.

I can vouch that YES his appartment looks like this, and YES the printer looks like this…And yes even when printing the printer still looks like this.

And yes i’ve had the owl in my hands along with many other things i’ve seen…
And indeed it’s settings, settings, settings, calibration, calibration etc…

:slight_smile:


#82

[quote=“cantax”][quote=“fitchie”]
After changing the hobbled bolt the smoothness of the extruder has been increased. This is particularly noticeable in flat areas.[/quote][/quote]

Hobbed bolt is a really good upgrade and it’s cheap, too. I recommend it to everyone.

Which hobbed bolt did you use?
I thought about changing mine for a longer time already.


#83

[quote=“VenHeelun”]One question:
I saw photo’s of the K8200 with this display working but on other sites they say that it is NOT compatible with the K8200.
Witch one must i beleve?
[/quote]
The K8200 is RepRap open source based, for sure you can connect bigger displays to the device. But keep in mind there are changes required to the firmware!

I didn’t try to connect other displays to my printer, I’m pretty happy with the device Velleman offers. It’s just a display where you look occasionally at.


#84

[quote=“ichbinsnur”]Which hobbed bolt did you use?
I thought about changing mine for a longer time already.[/quote]
For as long as this link is still up to date:

benl.ebay.be/itm/Hobbed-Bolt … bac&_uhb=1


#85

thanks!


#86

[quote=“fitchie”][quote=“VenHeelun”]One question:
I saw photo’s of the K8200 with this display working but on other sites they say that it is NOT compatible with the K8200.
Witch one must i beleve?
[/quote]
The K8200 is RepRap open source based, for sure you can connect bigger displays to the device. But keep in mind there are changes required to the firmware!

I didn’t try to connect other displays to my printer, I’m pretty happy with the device Velleman offers. It’s just a display where you look occasionally at.[/quote]

I know you don’t look at the screen every minute but i saw the one from Velleman and i think it’s too small for me and the lightnig is a bit poor i think. My eyes are not so good so i want to see it a little bit better then the one from Velleman.
I think it’s a much nicer looking screen and it’s cheaper for asfar as i have seen.
And if i’m going to start from scratch i do save me about 50 euro’s when install one anyway.


#87

Hi VenHeeLun,

There is another solution for the remote and standalone control of your printer.
I am using a raspberrypi with octoprint, which is connected to the K8200 controller via the USB port.
Octoprint has a web interface that lets your basically be controlled and monitored from anywhere.
It also features a webcam functionality (including timelapse).
To print, just upload your files via the webpage, and press print.

You can download a sd image from the internet that can be easily flashed onto sd (as with all pi images), and worked out of the box for me.
Octoprint:http://octoprint.org/
Octopi: https://github.com/guysoft/OctoPi

I also have the Velleman LCD and SD interface, and octoprint also lets you upload to the sd card of the K8200 controller (however did not test it).

I think that is a super enhancement for the K8200 besides all the other hardware mods.

Best Regards,

Robin


#88

Today I have designed a piece to attach a power cord to the printer. The intention was to use a standard 220 volt outlet with fuse and switch.
The assembled piece had to slide into the aluminum frame without screw connection or similar.

Here is the drawing:

And this is the printed part together with the power outlet:

Once everything is assembled, I will upload a picture of the modification…


#89

And the completed assembly:


#90

Nice!


#91

[quote=“fitchie”]And the completed assembly:

[/quote]


#92

Why did you print all parts in White and this part in Grey?


#93

I had to choose between silvergray and pink. :slight_smile:


#94

But why not white like the rest of your build?
Did you have no white anymore or is it something else?
I would have used white but thats my opinion.


#95

Did you remove the plexiglass cover?

Is there a reason for that?
Why did you install the cover? For optical or functional reasons?
I didn’t tried printing abs yet. The Reason is, that i don’t think i could print larger objects in abs without a closed chamber.
I would like you to tell us something about your experience with and without the plexiglass cover.

Btw: You should have started a poll to choose between pink and grey. Let the jealous people of us bring a bit colour into your project :stuck_out_tongue:


#96

Hi VenHeelun & Cantax !

[quote=“cantax”]
Btw: You should have started a poll to choose between pink and grey. :P[/quote]
Great idea, maybe I’ll follow VenHeelun’s advice, so white is also in scope. :slight_smile:

[quote=“cantax”]Did you remove the plexiglass cover?
Is there a reason for that?[/quote]
I own 2 versions of this printer:
[ul]- the one with the plexy hood with a 3,00mm filament E3D V5 extruder

  • another one adapted to use 1,75mm filament with an E3D V6 extruder (without plexi cover)[/ul]

[quote=“cantax”]
Why did you install the cover? For optical or functional reasons?
I would like you to tell us something about your experience with and without the plexiglass cover.[/quote]
Both aesthetically as technically. With plexi hood the heated bed stays better on temperature and the ambient temperature is warmer and more stable. However when I look at the results I only see little difference. As long as the ambient temperature exceeds 20 degrees, there is no need for a cover and for that reason the second K8200 has no hood.


#97

Next month i have the money to buy the k8200 so then i can build the printer.
How long does it normaly take to build the thing?
I can solder a little bit but i’m not a technician.

I do like to order 2 of the trapezoidal spindels like in your build.
How much difference in printquality does the 13 mm spindel?
The once from Velleman are 8 mm i think.
Are the 8 mm once a poor investment?
What do you advice:
2 x 8mm from Velleman
2 x 8mm from Roeselare
bigger diameter

Does it make any difference to use a toothbelt with finer tooth?


#98

[quote=“VenHeelun”]
What do you advice:
2 x 8mm from Velleman
2 x 8mm from Roeselare
bigger diameter

Does it make any difference to use a toothbelt with finer tooth?[/quote]

Well, the diameter is not the important part of using a leadscrew.
It is more important what pitch (the lower, the more resolution) it has.

I recently replaced my X and Y belt drives with GT2 2mm pitch (6mm wide) belts and 16 teeth (smaller diameter / more torque) pulleys.
It improved the bed movement and precision a lot.
I can print much faster and much more precise now.


#99

[quote=“VenHeelun”]Next month i have the money to buy the k8200 so then i can build the printer.
How long does it normaly take to build the thing?
I can solder a little bit but i’m not a technician.

I do like to order 2 of the trapezoidal spindels like in your build.
How much difference in printquality does the 13 mm spindel?
The once from Velleman are 8 mm i think.
Are the 8 mm once a poor investment?
What do you advice:
2 x 8mm from Velleman
2 x 8mm from Roeselare
bigger diameter

Does it make any difference to use a toothbelt with finer tooth?[/quote]

Hi VenHeelun,

I did not yet replace my z spindel, however I did order one that might be of interrest to you.
ebay.co.uk/itm/x1pce-Anti-Ba … OC:NL:3160

It has the same lead as the original velleman one, but it also features an anti backlash nut, which makes it a bit more expensive, but still cheaper than the velleman upgrade. Also this spindle (400 mm) is a bit longer than the velleman one which enables you make a stabilization joint on the end of the z axis, which the velleman upgrade has not.
I purchased the 400mm length.
I received it with excellent packaging and in excellent condition (= straight).
The delrin antibacklash nut fits very tight on the thread, and leaves (virtually has to move) no room for tolerance. Were some other trapezoid brass nuts left significant.

My mounting is a work in progress as I am also planning to fit a new steel motor bracket. I will need to do both at the same time as the motor bracket is slightly higher than the current one, so its a big thing.

This might be of interest, for leadscrew and belt calculations (and others)
prusaprinters.org/calculator/

I was also triggered by ichbinsnur to think about changing my belt.
Altought I do not quite comprehent all the inns and outs of the number of teeth, the above calculator shows that in terms of precision, less teeth = more precision…

Hope this helps,

Robin


#100

Hi Robin,

with less teeth on a pulley you get actually a smaller diameter/circumference of the pulley.
This gives you more steps/mm as with a bigger one.

As the GT2 2mm 16 teeth pulleys are quite small compared to the stock 10 teeth T5 ones
the Steps/mm go up to 100 (at 1/16th microstepping) if you swap them in.

This gives the axis more precision and also more torque, because of the smaller diameter.

If someone is interested in the printable parts for that mod, i can post the stl’s.
Although i think i’ll rework the Y axis idler mount cause the part i found on thingiverse does not mount very good.
I also modified the X idler mount to have screws in it for belt tensioning.
If i rework the Y idler i will try to fit such tensioning in as well. (quite hard because of the limited space under the heatbed.)

cheers,

Christian