The Velleman K8200 rules!


#101

[quote=“fitchie”]A picture is worth a thousand words, so here is the completed extruder with E3D hotend (1,75 mm filament & 0,25 mm nozzle):


[/quote]

fitchie, how did you modify the K8200 to work with 1.75mm filament?


#102

That would be interesting for me too.
I don’t think the stock extruder hobbed bolt/bearing pair is able to push 1.75mm filament, is it?


#103

Hello fitchie,

would you mind sharing your simplify3D configuration? Thanks


#104

You can download the configurationfile here:
http://users.telenet.be/dir/k8200/


#105

A did get my K8200 al last.
The building of the printer did go fine but i ran in some problems with the firmware upgrade to the one for the VM8201 (display).
I found the flatcable a little bit chord so i made a new longer one. With that cable connected the display didn’t work at all. So i went to the shop where i bougt the printer and they generously provided my with a new VM8201 and that worked fine. With the flatcable from the new VM8201 the old display did work also, so it must have been the flatcabel that caused the problem. But when i tested the movements of the printer with the VM8201 the Y did not work at all. All other movements did work fine. Also the homing did not go to the real zero position but 2 cm to the right. I placed some files on a memory card and tryed to read them from the VM8201. There were no files found on the VM8201. That was a problem too.

At some point the powersupply did die. I thing it was my fault but i can not be sure. He even provided me with a new powersupply.
I don’t know so many stores who have so good service and i am very thankfull.

Conclusion:
With firmware v1 everything works (perfectly) but the printer must be connected to the computer or use firmware v2 and the display works but the printer does not.

When i looked at the controllerboard i noteced that on one of the chips on 2 places 2 pins ar connected. It could be that that caused all the problems. The shopowner did make photo’s of the board and mailed them to Velleman and now i wait for the result. I must be a little bit pacient.

The shop owner does everything he can to solve the problem. I must check some things like faulty wiring or bad motors but i don’t thing that’s the problem because the printer prints fine with firmware v1.

At least i can print and that’s for me the most important.


#106

[quote=“VenHeelun”]A did get my K8200 al last.
The building of the printer did go fine but i ran in some problems with the firmware upgrade to the one for the VM8201 (display).
I found the flatcable a little bit chord so i made a new longer one. With that cable connected the display didn’t work at all. So i went to the shop where i bougt the printer and they generously provided my with a new VM8201 and that worked fine. With the flatcable from the new VM8201 the old display did work also, so it must have been the flatcabel that caused the problem. But when i tested the movements of the printer with the VM8201 the Y did not work at all. All other movements did work fine. Also the homing did not go to the real zero position but 2 cm to the right. I placed some files on a memory card and tryed to read them from the VM8201. There were no files found on the VM8201. That was a problem too.

At some point the powersupply did die. I thing it was my fault but i can not be sure. He even provided me with a new powersupply.
I don’t know so many stores who have so good service and i am very thankfull.

Conclusion:
With firmware v1 everything works (perfectly) but the printer must be connected to the computer or use firmware v2 and the display works but the printer does not.

When i looked at the controllerboard i noteced that on one of the chips on 2 places 2 pins ar connected. It could be that that caused all the problems. The shopowner did make photo’s of the board and mailed them to Velleman and now i wait for the result. I must be a little bit pacient.

The shop owner does everything he can to solve the problem. I must check some things like faulty wiring or bad motors but i don’t thing that’s the problem because the printer prints fine with firmware v1.

At least i can print and that’s for me the most important.[/quote]

Which arduino version did you use for the firmware upgrade?
Only 1.0.6 works so far. NOT 1.6.0!


#107

Hi fitchie,

Thanks for providing great inspiration, I have a question about your placement of the filament spool. I too have tried to mount spool onto extruder arm but have found that the additional weight of spool causes the arm to drift back into the print between Z axis moves. Do you still mount your spool in this manner and have you done anything to prevent it from drifting back down?

Thanks


#108

[quote=“Radius22”]Do you still mount your spool in this manner and have you done anything to prevent it from drifting back down?
Thanks[/quote]
Yes I do with perfect results. Since the spindle pushes with a constant weight on the arm, there is no problem.
Please remember to mount everything up to the left (the more to the sliding bearing, the smaller the torque).

After upgrading the printer to extrude 1,75 mm filament I use 0,75 kg filament spools, a slight advantage compared to 3 mm filament 1 kg rolls.


#109

Greetings,
I’m new to the forum so just wanted to say hello. Got my K8200 last December (Mrs. Claus left it under the tree). Got it assembled by the new year and have spent the past several months tweaking and upgrading. So far:

24v separate power and reprap power expander for heat bed. Gets to 110C in about 7 minutes.
cork beneath and 3mm glass above the heat bed
E3D v6 (I mostly use 0.4mm, but I have 0.25mm and 0.6mm nozzles at the ready). I used the original heater cartridge in the upgrade
12v power supply for E3d hot end cooling fan and LED lights
Acrylic housing (modeled after fitchie, thanks!). I’m fortunate to have access to a shop with acrylic capability and I had some already on hand so it cost very little.
8mm trapezoidal lead screw/flex coupler
Moved the Z stepper to the top and mounted the lead screw on a pillow bearing so no linear (vertical) force on the Z-motor. This also allowed me to use the original Z mount with no movement of the motor during steps. (The trapezoidal lead screw and top mount really cleared up the banding issue)

I had to tweak the Z voltage to .55V when I moved the motor to the top, especially if I covered the opening while heating. Seems the heat buildup near the top, coupled with little airflow around the Z-motor, affected its function. (Plans to add doors are on hold, pending addition of peltier cooler, heat sink and fan to the Z motor).

GT2 X and Y belts. I got the X axis changed (using thing 617592 by Area51 on thingiverse); Y Axis conversion is next. This seems to already have cleared up some vertical banding I had with the T5 belt on the X axis.

LEDs around the inside top (also powered from the external 12V power supply)

dropbox.com/s/pktu2wh4svust … 1.jpg?dl=0
dropbox.com/s/uklw4cy97x18x … s.jpg?dl=0

I would appreciate any feedback/suggestions.

David


#110

Thanxs ‘[color=#BF0000]ichbinsnur[/color]’ for your comment on the arduino version.
Version 1.0.6 did resolve all the problems.

I’m now in the process of printing cases and cableclips for all the exposed electronics.

I removed the screen and backprint from each other. The display i mounted on the front of the printer and the backprint at the frontright side of the printer with a flat cable between them.

On the lightring i mounted a dimmer. I did find the leds a bid bright on the glasplate especially at night.

I also mounted a pannic button as an on/off switch, a big red one like on industrial machines in case i print SOOOO FAST the printer cashes fire !!!

A comment on ‘[color=#BF0000]fitchie’s[/color]’ post.
I did get a half rol of blue pla fillament witch was very stiff. While printing everyting went well but the day after everytime the fillement broke. The fillament-wire was very different to be straitend.
I think it was a VERY OLD rol witch was dryed out.
My solution was to place the role right behind the printhead. I did make a holder on the rear cross tube between the 2 back feet. Now the rounding of the roll remains until the fillement enters the extruder-insert-hole. The tention of the wire is almost gone.

To ‘[color=#BF0000]RobinS[/color]’
I do like the “x1pce” spindle on ebay you mention.
On the picture you can see the spindle and leadscrew. Is that all i need to mount the spindle?
What about the flexable coupler and mounting material(s)? I don’t know witch one fits on this spindle.
I want to order all at once. I don’t want to order something and realising something is missing like special screws or brackets only for this spindle.
Could you please give me the url’s of ALL the needed parts to install these spindles?
A partlist would be handy.
Is there another company where i can buy the same parts from directly from the Netherlands? Then I save the customs fees.

Thank you for replying on my posts. I realy apreciate them.
And sorry if my grammar is not perfect. Every time I try to improve myself.
I would like to place a photo of the printer but i don’t know how.
The Q&A tals about [BBcode]. I think i did something wrong. My photo is on my Dropbox and i can get the link there. If someone could tell me the right way then i’m glad to place the photo.


#111

I have the same question.
I also like to purchase the x1pce spindle and the anti backslash nut. But which coupler do I need?
Do you have any .stl for the mounting? And something (or parts needed) for the stabilization joint at the end of the z-axis.

[quote=“ichbinsnur”]As the GT2 2mm 16 teeth pulleys are quite small compared to the stock 10 teeth T5 ones
the Steps/mm go up to 100 (at 1/16th microstepping) if you swap them in.

This gives the axis more precision and also more torque, because of the smaller diameter.

If someone is interested in the printable parts for that mod, i can post the stl’s.
Although i think i’ll rework the Y axis idler mount cause the part i found on thingiverse does not mount very good.
I also modified the X idler mount to have screws in it for belt tensioning.
If i rework the Y idler i will try to fit such tensioning in as well. (quite hard because of the limited space under the heatbed.)
[/quote]

Well Christian. I’m interested! Could you provide the files (or link) for the printable parts?
Thanks!


#112

Does anyone have a complete menu-discription of the VM2101 (display) for the K8200?
In some menu’s are values that i don’t understand.
I like to have a discription of every value in the menu’s.
A bit strange that Velleman only have a building-manual but not a user-manual of the device.
I think it’s little bit lack of support.

Thank you


#113

We did not include it because we use open source Marlin firmware.
Please Google for ‘Marlin LCD menu’ and you will find plenty of info.


#114

Yes, a lot of menu’s but no explanation of the functions.
I still like to have a list of settings with an explanation of what that setting does.

Other question:
Does anyone know if you can connect 2 fans to the existing fan wire?
I know you can connect them to the powersupply but then you lose the controle of the controlerboard.
How much amps can it handle?


#115

[quote=“VenHeelun”]Other question:
Does anyone know if you can connect 2 fans to the existing fan wire?
I know you can connect them to the powersupply but then you lose the controle of the controlerboard.
How much amps can it handle?[/quote]

For what do you want to use the second fan?


#116

I have connected 2 extruder fans.
I have also made 2 nozzles for them.
What I have found is if the fans 100% it will cool the hot end and give you cold extrusion and stop putting out plastic.
I have also wired in switches so I can turn them off and directed them down below the hot end and limited their speed in the slicer software.

This is the fan I used
http://www.vellemanusa.com/products/view/?id=525326
This is the same one that came with the K8200


#117

[quote=“Wrong Way”]I have connected 2 extruder fans.
I have also made 2 nozzles for them.
What I have found is if the fans 100% it will cool the hot end and give you cold extrusion and stop putting out plastic.
I have also wired in switches so I can turn them off and directed them down below the hot end and limited their speed in the slicer software.

This is the fan I used
http://www.vellemanusa.com/products/view/?id=525326
This is the same one that came with the K8200[/quote]

Did you connect the 2 fans on the one existing fan wire or on the powersupply?
I want to know if the controlerboard can handle 2 fans at 100% load.


#118

Yes it can.

But you can not run both fans at 100%.
It will cool the hot end down to the point where you get Cold Extrusion Prevented.
I have switches on both of them so I can turn one or both off in case it causes a problem.


#119

[quote=“Wrong Way”]Yes it can.

But you can not run both fans at 100%.
It will cool the hot end down to the point where you get Cold Extrusion Prevented.
I have switches on both of them so I can turn one or both off in case it causes a problem.[/quote]

I think you don’t understand my question.
At this point i don’t care if my prints are good or not, i realy ONLY want to know if my controlerboard can handle the load of 2 fans on one header.
Does the board fry or not with 2 fans on the one header?
I have to know where to connect the fans to in the first place. After that i can install a switch to control the airflow.


#120

[quote=“szeedijk”][quote=“VenHeelun”]Other question:
Does anyone know if you can connect 2 fans to the existing fan wire?
I know you can connect them to the powersupply but then you lose the controle of the controlerboard.
How much amps can it handle?[/quote]

For what do you want to use the second fan?[/quote]
I see a lot of youtube movies that show better prints with 2 fans at the nozle.