The Velleman K8200 rules!


#161

Hello All
I am a new member to the board, although I have been taking hints and tips for a while.
Bought a K8200 earlier in the year, and have just put an E3d V6 head onto it. So I had a go at the rook.
This is actual size

and here it is with the 200% print

And the top view

I used 1.5mm layers with a 0.3 nozzle. The PLA is from Rigidink. I have found their PLA to be extremely good.
Still some tweaking to do, but I guess we will never stop doing that.

Cheers

Peter


#162

Christian, what was your print speed and retraction settings for your print?


#163

speed was 40mm/s
retraction length 1mm
retraction speed 200mm/s


#164

This is actual size:

Not bad at all !

Hello Velleman, where are the chocolates for the winner ?
:slight_smile:


#165

Hi there fitchie
Thanks for your kind words. I even printed it in chocolate colour as a reminder to Velleman!

Incidentally, I have put the filament spool on the other side of the printer. Normally the hobbed bolt puts the marks on the outside of the curve of the filament. This can rub on the filament guide. By putting the spool the other side, the hobbed bolt is on the inside of the curve, and you then have smooth plastic rubbing on the hotend tube.

Peter


#166

I solved this using a guide for the filament. Works perfect. The filament is always going straight in!
You can find it at thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:975129


#167

Hi Szeedijk

That looks a good guide, but when you are down to the bottom of a spool of filament, it will still try to curl up again.
The latest stuff I got is a bit easier to straighten, but some of my old reels of filament are very stiff, and will rub whatever you do!

Cheers
Peter


#168

Yep, That’s a known problem Peter. But that’s only at the end of the filament. All the others meters/feets the guide works like a charm :smiley:

Sander


#169

Hi,

Could i have the link that makes the holder for the round trapezoidal nut ?
And what did you make for holding the trapezoidal at the top?

Thank you!


#170

[quote=“Citystars”]Could i have the link that makes the holder for the round trapezoidal nut ?
[/quote]
Just look in your inbox. :slight_smile:


#171

For everyone who is looking for a convenient and inexpensive table for their printer, I would you like to recommend this IKEA drawer:

[ul]Reference: Alex
Size: 67 x 48 x 66 (H)
Price: 99 euro[/ul]

Fits perfectly !
But It is preferable not to assemble the supplied wheels.


#172

[quote=“Linas_capas”][quote=“fitchie”]A picture is worth a thousand words, so here is the completed extruder with E3D hotend (1,75 mm filament & 0,25 mm nozzle):

Not visible in the picture, but the inside extruder robbed bolt is replaced by a modified one:

For as long as this link is still up to date:

http://www.benl.ebay.be/itm/Hobbed-Bolt-M8x60-3D-Printing-Prusa-Mendel-RepRap-Mendelmax-/231299673004?pt=Kunststoffe_Chemie&hash=item35da88ebac&_uhb=1

Hi,
I am running into feed/skid issues with my extruder as well. Had it working awesome with a custom hobbed bolt I made now I can’t even print anything w/o it stripping on the material.
Is that link http://www.benl.ebay.be/itm/Hobbed-Bolt-M8x60-3D-Printing-Prusa-Mendel-RepRap-Mendelmax-/231299673004?pt=Kunststoffe_Chemie&hash=item35da88ebac&_uhb=1 compatible right with the stock extruder width, etc of the K8200 or did you have to play with the washers? I’m at my end with this and want to try another hobbed bolt :slight_smile:


#173

[quote=“Meximelt”]
Is that link compatible right with the stock extruder width of the K8200 or did you have to play with the washers?"[/quote]
Definitely you have to align the notch in the hobbed bolt with the filament guide by adjusting the washers. I have made a set of spacers on the lathe for an even more precise alignment.


#174

[quote=“fitchie”][quote=“Meximelt”]
Is that link compatible right with the stock extruder width of the K8200 or did you have to play with the washers?"[/quote]
Definitely you have to align the notch in the hobbed bolt with the filament guide by adjusting the washers. I have made a set of spacers on the lathe for an even more precise alignment.[/quote]

Cool! I already ordered, have made my own hobbed on milling machine with indexer and doesn’t work well. This design looks very aggressive to keep consistent feeding! Thanks for your feedback!


#175

Here are some pictures of the first tests with bronze filament (watch the blob immediately below the nozzle).
The pieces are noticeably heavier than the PLA variants and request some rework. The more you polish the better they will shine.


#176

[quote=“fitchie”]Here are some pictures of the first tests with bronze filament (watch the blob immediately below the nozzle).
The pieces are noticeably heavier than the PLA variants and request some rework. The more you polish the better they will shine.

[/quote]

Very Cool!
Anything w/the blob - is it over-extruding - need to adjust the extrusion multiplier / re-calibrate for that material???


#177

Hi Fitchie

I have been playing with the Brass filament. Similar stuff. (see the post on brassfill further down the forum)
I found that I had to decrease the temperature from 206 degrees to 194 degrees. I usually run at 206 for the black PLA I am using.
You should find that decreasing the temperature will help with the blobbing. It also seems to give a better finish with no lines. If you use 400 emery followed by 1200 emery then polish up with a good car polish, you should get a lovely bright shine. It looks rather like sintered brass (or bronze) but is very effective.

The only downside is the fact that it is fairly soft. It can be very easily scratched.

I have not tried a print with an overhang yet!

Peter


#178

Hi

I have been following this thread and now got a e3d wow what a difference so much better but got couple of questions I haven’t changed filament yet but what is the best way to do this? If I heat up and take out will it get jammed as read that when retraction is set to high this jams sometimes?

Also I printed the owl but just wandered what infill you use I had 10% but how do you work out how much infill should be used on items like the chess piece used 30% why not 25%?


#179

For changing filament loosen the sprong clamp, heat up the extruder and pull the filament out quickly in one stroke.
That way i never had any jam with my E3D V6.

Figuring out the minimum possible infill amount is a bit of try and error.
How much infill you need depends on the design of the part and the needed rigidness.


#180

Does anyone ordered parts from 123-3d.nl ?
You can buy everything in one order so you don’t have to look at so much differend places.
I want to know if the quality of the stuf they have is good.
Also you don’t need a creditcard witch i don’t have.